Draft:Pinili pattern
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| Type | Weaving pattern, supplementary weft technique |
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Pinili (also widely known as pinilian) is a traditional supplementary weft weaving technique indigenous to the Philippines. The term originates from the root word pili, which translates to "choose" or "select". Rather than being a distinct garment or skirt, it is a complex brocade-like pattern method applied to traditional textiles, characterized by motifs that float in relief on the surface of the cloth.
Technique and characteristics
The pinili pattern is achieved through a complicated weaving process where sticks are carefully inserted on chosen warp threads (the lengthwise threads). This supplementary weft technique produces distinct designs that give a "floating" effect, providing the finished weave with an embroidery-like, three-dimensional quality.
The manual process effectively translates a weaver's envisioned design into two-dimensional motifs on the textile. In many weaving communities, traditional pinili or pinilian designs heavily incorporate elements of nature and the weavers' surrounding environments, frequently featuring floral, anthropomorphic, and geometric motifs.
Regional applications
Antique (Visayas)
In the province of Antique on Panay Island, the pinili technique is intricately associated with the weaving of the patadyong. The patadyong is a traditional tube-like garment characterized by its colorful checkered or plaid designs.
The practice is most prominent in Barangay Bagtason, located in the municipality of Bugasong, where the Bagtason Loom Weavers Association (BLWA) actively produces handwoven textiles. In Bugasong, the local weavers produce the pinili textile using a traditional wooden loom known locally as a tiral.
- The Antiqueño weavers are notably recognized for integrating the original "sampaguita" design into their pinili textiles.
- To color their threads, the weavers utilize natural dyes, such as blue dye extracted from indigo shrubs cultivated in their local model farms.
Ilocos Region (Luzon)
In the northwestern Philippines, the Ilocanos and Itneg communities also extensively utilize the pinilian technique in the production of their traditional abel or inabel textiles.
- The weavers of the Ilocos Region typically use cotton (kapas) as their primary material.
- There are two primary classifications of Ilocano pinilian: the scattered (or sparse) supplementary weft and the continuous supplementary weft.
- The textiles often feature highly localized botanical motifs, such as the sinan-sabong ti parya, which represents the flower of the bitter gourd (Momordica charantia).
See also
References
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