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Hervé L. Leroux

Hervé L Leroux (French pronunciation: [ɛʁve ɛl ləʁu]; 30 May 1957 – 6 October 2017) was a French fashion designer and founder of the Hervé Leger fashion house.

Biography

Hervé Leroux was born as Hervé Leger on 30 May 1957 in the small historical town of Bapaume in northern France and died on 6 October 2017.[1] One of three children, he excelled in art in school, leaving his hometown at age 18 to go study sculpture in Paris at the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts.

Leroux died on 6 October 2017, aged 60.[2]

Early career

Two years later Leroux turned his attention to the world of hairdressing, becoming a qualified hairstylist working for Jean-Marc Maniatis. His first show was doing hair backstage at Chloé. From there, beginning in 1978, a he began making hats and bags. After creating some hats for a Tan Giudicelli[3] show, he was invited to work on a handful of dresses, an initial taste of dressmaking that led Giudicelli to suggest he drop hairstyling and turn his energies to clothes. In 1980, he met Karl Lagerfeld and, three days later, was hired to work as his assistant, initially at Fendi in Rome for two years, and then at Chanel, in Paris, where he was senior assistant designer for their first two ready-to-wear collections.[4]

After Chanel, he went out on his own in 1985, setting up a small studio and store on Rue du Pélican near the Palais-Royal in central Paris, making dresses and hats. He also began a series of consultancies, working as a freelance haute couture designer at Lanvin under the direction of Maryll Lanvin, at Diane Von Furstenberg, designing accessories at newly launched Daniel Swarovski and shoes at Charles Jourdan.[5]

He founded his own label Hervé Léger in 1985, creating the bandage dresses that the label would be known for in 1990. Writing in the International Herald Tribune, fashion critic Suzy Menkes described one of these early collections as "a recipe for the Nineties".[6] Leroux "molded his fabric to the female form, rather than draping and cutting it."[7] Though various designers have staked a claim as to who did the bandage dresses first, and Leroux often pointed out that in the modern era the late American couturier Charles James set the standard,[8] he also took a far longer view of any attribution, telling style.com, "Bands belong to history. They come from Cleopatra, Queen of the Egyptians."[9]

In the late 1990s,[10] he lost control of his company Hervé Léger and the commercial use of the name in 1999.[11]

Becoming Hervé L. Leroux

Leroux (the name change was suggested by Karl Lagerfeld – "He told me, 'Call yourself Leroux because your hair is red – not as red as it was, because you are older – but anyway it works, and everyone will know who you are.'"[12]) founded his own independently-financed couture house, Hervé L. Leroux, delivering his first dresses for spring 2000.[13] The design studio and store were, and still are, located at 32 rue Jacob in the heart of Paris' Left Bank, in the former boutique and store of the late famed antique dealer and decorator Madeleine Castaing, a location and enterprise he dubbed "the smallest couture shop in the world."[14] There Leroux developed a new concept of made-to-measure jersey dresses created by hand.

Style

As creative director of Paris-based house Guy Laroche from 2004-2006, he dressed Hilary Swank for her 2005 Oscar appearance in a backless midnight-blue jersey dress.[15] In 2007, the firm branched into ready-to-wear.

In November 2012, Leroux teamed with the NYC based, boutique fragrance brand Joya to create a candle[16] which comes in a matte black glass container cut on a slant to mimic a bias drape.

Theater work

  • 1995 - Designed stage costumes for Zizi Jeanmaire for her show with the Ballet de Marseille, directed by Roland Petit, in Marseille, Paris and Toulon.
  • 1995 - Costumes for the ballet "Camera Obscura" directed by Roland Petit at the Opéra de Paris.
  • 1997 - Costumes for the ballet "Le Lac des Cygnes" (Swan Lake) directed by Roland Petit in Marseille.

References

  1. ^ Rebecca Arnold, [1], fashionencyclopedia.com
  2. ^ On The Life And Legacy Of Hervé Léger Designer Hervé L. Leroux
  3. ^ Rebecca Arnold, [2], fashionencyclopedia.com
  4. ^ Rebecca Arnold, [3], fashionencyclopedia.com
  5. ^ Rebecca Arnold, [4], fashionencyclopedia.com
  6. ^ Suzy Menkes, [5], International Herald Tribune
  7. ^ Tim Blanks, Hervé's Legacy, [6], Vogue, April 2007
  8. ^ Elizabeth Ann Coleman, [7], The Genius of Charles James, The Brooklyn Museum, Holt, Rinehart and Winston, 1982
  9. ^ Laird Borelli, [8], 'Hervé Léger, back on the fashion radar', style.com, 10 January 2006
  10. ^ [9], WWD, 30 June 1998
  11. ^ Rebecca Lowthorpe, [10], 'Designer loses his own label', The Independent, 21 April 1999
  12. ^ Laird Borelli, [11], 'Hervé Léger, back on the fashion radar', style.com, 10 January 2006
  13. ^ Suzy Menkes, [12], 'Customers, Old and New, Track Down Fashion's Hidden Assets : The Comeback Kids', International Herald Tribune, 13 June 2000
  14. ^ Laird Borelli, [13], 'Hervé Léger, back on the fashion radar', style.com, 10 January 2006
  15. ^ Victoria Lowe, [14], The Best and Worst Oscar Dresses Ever, Cosmopolitan.com
  16. ^ Fiorella Valdesolo,[15], 'The bandage dress, in candle form', style.com, 29 November 2012
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