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Alta moda

Pierre Balmain veste Ruth Ford con un abito di alta moda in una fotografia del 1947 di Carl van Vechten.

L’alta moda o haute couture[1] è il settore dell'abbigliamento nel quale operano i creatori di abiti di lusso.

Storia

L’industria Couture nacque nel 1850 a Parigi dove i migliori stilisti organizzavano, per i loro clienti più esclusivi, delle piccole presentazioni nelle loro maison. Il primato di Parigi rimane per decenni indiscusso in Europa e nel mondo. Nel 1951 il marchese Giovanni Battista Giorgini, un brillante imprenditore, lancia l'alta moda italiana organizzando a Firenze, per la stampa, clienti dell'aristocrazia e acquirenti americani, le prime sfilate dei principali stilisti italiani come Schubert, Antonelli, Carosa, Ferdinandi, Simonetta, Fabiani, Mingolini-Gugenheim, Garnett, Giovannelli-Sciarra, Veneziani, Marucelli e le sorelle Fontana. L'esordio dell'alta moda italiana avviene il 12 febbraio 1951 nella abitazione privata di Giorgini[2], ma già dall'anno successivo viene utilizzata la Sala Bianca di Palazzo Pitti che sarà per anni la storica sede della moda italiana[3]. In quella occasione Giorgini lanciò anche il diciottenne Roberto Capucci di cui nel 2019 Anna Fendi nel docu-film La moda proibita di Ottavio Rosati dirà: Roberto Capucci è il Dio della moda. L'ha fatta lui, l'ha inventata lui l'alta moda italiana. [4].

Diffusione

Il settore ruota attorno a varie case di moda, alcune delle quali assai antiche, conosciute grazie a marchi ben pubblicizzati presso il grande pubblico. L'Alta Moda ha per oggetto creazioni lussuose e straordinarie e su misura destinate a una clientela di lusso. I principali esponenti dell'Haute Couture in Europa sono Dior, Versace, Chanel, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Armani, Valentino, Lagerfeld, Gucci, Prada, Fendi, dolce e gabbana e Vuitton che in modalità varie affiancano alle collezioni di Alta Moda una produzione di abiti confezionati in vendita in negozi di vari paesi. In ognuna di queste case lavorano grandi stilisti, disegnatori e addetti al marketing. Essi propongono le loro innovative creazioni per mezzo di sfilate di moda aperte alla stampa e ai compratori (buyers), con l'intento di anticipare le tendenze della moda. Alcune case d'alta moda sono proprietarie di marchi dedicati ai settori del prêt-à-porter e degli accessori.

Note

  1. ^ "Haute couture" è una locuzione mutuata dalla lingua francese dove ha lo stesso significato della locuzione italiana "alta moda".
  2. ^ targa commemorativa del Comune di Firenze a ricordo della prima sfilata di moda italiana a Villa Torrigiani (JPG), su upload.wikimedia.org.
  3. ^ Oriana Fallaci - Epoca n.95/1952 (PDF), su petitesondes.net.
  4. ^ Ne La moda proibita - Roberto Capucci e il futuro dell'alta moda (2019 - Plays e Jean Vigo Italia con Istituto Luce) Rosati racconta con degli attori il trucco con cui Giorgini riuscì ad aggirare l'opposizione degli stilisti affermati alla presenza di un giovane debuttante IMDb

Voci correlate

Altri progetti

Collegamenti esterni

Controllo di autoritàGND (DE4245678-2 · BNF (FRcb12047426r (data)
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